H-E-Double-Hockeysticks Kitchen

When you go to a restaurant called Hell’s Kitchen, you’re expecting something different. Something out of the ordinary. Shall we say, under the radar. Visually clean, simple, nothing too cliché but a few “off” touches. Like the black ragged tablecloths. Or the dead tree in the back full of crows. This isn’t just a restaurant. This is a playground for the owners, one of whom I interviewed for this story.

Mitch Omer is one of the ‘celebrated chefs’ mentioned on the sign when you walk in the door. I asked him what qualified him as a celebrated chef. While his response was that the sign was mostly ‘tongue-in-cheek’, I eventually managed to pull from him that he won the Minnesota Fish & Wild Game Championships three years in a row and won the National BBQ Rib Championship in the early 90’s. He and his business partner, Steve Meyer, have been chefs for over thirty years. And because of the limited hours of the restaurant (they’re open Monday thru Friday from 6:30am to 2:00pm and Saturday and Sunday 8am to 2pm), either Mitch or his partner are always on duty. It also means that Hell’s Kitchen is a great place for breakfast or lunch but you’ll have to look elsewhere for dinner.

I also asked about the name. “I just liked it,” Mitch replied. “It doesn’t have any special meaning like spicy food.” And speaking of food, what makes Hell’s Kitchen special? “Everything is our own recipe, including the condiments.” The condiments? Turns out, they make their own catsup, mustard, tomato juice, peanut butter, orange marmalade, cocoa, and even the cold cereal is their own mix. These guys are kind of fanatical about the food. Mitch’s wife is so taken with the Lemon-Ricotta pancakes that if she brings someone to the restaurant and they don’t order the pancakes, she goes back to the kitchen and brings them out a platter. Mitch brought me out a plate-full. No wonder she’s a nut for them. They’re fabulous.

This restaurant isn’t a place you go to get lots of mediocre food for dirt cheap. That said, the restaurant is about quality and value for the money. Mitch gets the thickest cut bacon he can find. His slab of ham is a “slab.” And the specials are new ideas Mitch or Steve discover and want to share with their customers. They have a small, eclectic beer and wine list and the Bloody Marys come with the beer in the drink rather than on the side. Interesting.

Hell’s Kitchen offers catering and is available for special events in the restaurant after hours. You can call them at 612-332-4700 or visit their website for more information. Also, uh, these guys like music. There are 14 pairs of speakers in the restaurant and even speakers on the cook’s line. And did I mention the Elvis shrine in Mitch’s office?

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